Bordeaux 1960s – Age doesn’t matter

在生活上,在大部份場合我們也希望接受年輕人提供的服務,和年輕人一起工作。的確年輕人表面上比較有活力,也容易將活力感染別人,讓人感到年輕。不單在生活上,在飲酒上其實也有同樣的情況,大家會盡量選擇較成熟,而年份輕的酒。

一般來說新舊的分別是新年份的酒有濃烈的Primary aroma 如鮮果香,單寧也較粗獷,酒精感也較重。而經歲月洗禮的舊酒會多了獨特的Tertiary aromas 味道如乾果乾花,白酒會有Nutty、Honey、Caramel的味道,而紅酒會有 Gamey野味、leather皮革和animal動物等等的味道,單寧比較柔滑,酒精感也較輕,味道會更溶合,更混然天成。當酒陳年越耐Tertiary aromas 會越多,相反primary aromas 會越少,到最後只剩下Tertiary aromas,而酒也到達風燭殘年的時候。

常言道波爾多酒可以陳年50至100年,我們自然立即聯想到5大、8大等名莊,聯想到那些世紀年份。但次一級或再次級的酒,普通的年份情況又會如何呢?

朋友J大今次找來多瓶60年代的波爾多舊酒,試試她們的陳年能力,試試她們會否依然年青。

先來的是label 非常骯髒的香檳

A. R. Lenoble Champagne Brut Grand Cru 1988

A. R. Lenoble Champagne Brut Grand Cru 1988

Pale gold colour with medium(+) intensity aroma of lemon, pear, floral, honeysuckle, honey, mineral and caramel

Dry with medium(+) acidity, medium alcohol, medium(+) body and medium(+) intensity flavours of orange, pear, peel, spicy, mineral, nutty and delicate mousse texture and medium(-) length lingered by minerality and fruit acidity.

Refreshing acidity, integrated flavours with good body and flavor intensity except the length cannot match the body of the wine.

 

第二支是人稱叉燒炳的Chateau Chasse Spleen 1966 MG,亦是今次的主角之一

叉燒炳在波爾多酒中並不是大阿哥,但也算不上是無名小卒,在1855年時她沒有被納入Grand Cru Classe 的光環之內,在1932年的Cru Bourgeois之中位列Exceptionnels級,可惜在2007年時廢除了Exceptionnels級別,再次變得一無所有,但她一向的質素及價錢,算是性價比高了。

話說朋友J大有次試過了一些7、80s的叉燒炳很是喜歡,在試酒會時遇到叉燒炳的莊主向他提起,莊主見難得有知音人,就極力推薦J大試1961同1966兩個年份。而J大就找來今次1966同1961的叉燒炳。

Chateau Chasse Spleen 1966 MG

Chateau Chasse Spleen 1966 MG

Medium(-) garnet color with wide palm rim , medium(+) intensity aromas of forest floor, cider, dry fruit like red current, some fresh red fruit and hint of candy fruit.

Medium(+) acidity, medium(+) fine tannins, medium alcohol, medium(+) body and medium intensity flavours of fresh redcurrant, prune, cider, mineral, smoky, tea leaf and medium(+) finish lingered by mineral and red fruits acidity.

之後散發出陳皮,茶葉的味道,兩小時後有更多的乾果的味道。

如果不看顏色,依然有鮮果的味道,加上活潑的酒體,好難相信是一支1966年的酒,當然Magnum的容量和2007年recork過一定幫了一大把。

 

第三次是Pomerol 的 Chateau Trotanoy 1967

Pomerol位於右岸,葡萄以Merlot為主,Cabernet Franc 及少量的Cabernet Sauvignon,和左岸Medoc區不同。Pomerol大部份酒莊的規模相對上較細,而且亦沒有任何級別的分類,對酒沒有太多認識消費者在選酒時會有一定的困難。Chateau Trotanoy 算是有名,和Chateau Petrus 一樣同屬Jean-Pierre Moueix擁有,質數有保證。

Chateau Trotanoy 1967

Chateau Trotanoy 1967

Medium ruby colour with medium intensity aromas of fresh and sweet red fruits like prune, plum

Medium acidity, medium(+) ripe and structured tannins medium(+) body, medium(+) intensity flavor of ripe red fruits, hint of green bell pepper smoky and coffee with medium length lingered by mineral, smoky and coffee.

酒色比叉燒炳深,有很甜美的紅果味道,Tertiary aromas並不多。

 

第四支酒是Chateau l’Evangile 1964

另一支位處Pomerol的酒,1990年時被Domaines Barons de Rothschild 所收購。其葡萄園與Vieux Château Certan, Château Pétrus 的為鄰,亦接近St. Emilion的邊界。這支酒也在2005年recork過。

Chateau l’Evangile 1964

Chateau l'Evangile 1964

Medium ruby color with garnet rim

Medium intensity aroma of toasty, smoky, hint of vanilla, red fruits like redcurrant and plum with a little bit grassy

Medium acidity with medium fine tannin, medium body, medium intensity flavor of fresh red fruit, hint of dry red fruit and orange with medium length

感覺用桶比較多,酒比較柔和,以鮮紅果味道為主,少許成熟酒的韻味,但酒有少少青的感覺。

第五支酒又是Magnum容量的 Chateau Canon 1964

Chateau Canon 原名Clos St-Martin,在1853年改為現在的名字。屬St. Emilion區的Premiers Grands Crus classes B的列級酒莊。

Chateau Canon 1964 MG

Chateau Canon 1964 MG

Medium(-) intensity garnet color with wide rim

Medium intensity aromas of toasty, vanilla, sweet red fruits like redcurrant, orange peel, violet and cigar box

Medium acidity, medium(+) rip and firm tannin, medium(+) body, medium intensity flavor of red fruit, coffee with medium(-) finish lingered by coffee and earthy tone.

充足的單寧加上鮮紅果味,酸度溶合並不感受到酸度。但收結不太突出,酒色也較淺出賣了她的實際年齡。

第六支是Chateau Haut Brion 1966

Chateau Haut Brion不用多說,是5大之一,唯一一支不屬於Medoc區的5大。

Chateau Haut Brion 1966

Chateau Haut Brion 1966

Medium ruby color with garnet rim

Medium intensity aromas of red fruits, liquorice, dried tobacco leaves, cedar, dried rose petal

Medium acidity, medium(+) structured tannin, medium body, medium intensity flavor of red fruits like red currant, dry red fruit, liquorice, herb and spicy with medium(+) finish.

酒色比其他的酒為深,酸度、酒精和味道溶合,單寧有強勁,酒體複雜有架構,加上有鮮果味道,成熟的特質並不明顯。現在飲用和繼續陳年也可。

第七支也是當晚最後一支紅酒是 Chateau Pape Clement Rouge 1961

Chateau Pape Clement 位處Grave的Pessac Leognan區中,是波爾多區最老的酒莊之一,已有七百多年的歷史。有出產的紅酒和白酒,在1959年的Classification of Graves wine中,紅白酒也同樣位列Grands Cru Classe。加上莊主Leo Montagne 近年厲精圖治,僱用了Michel Rolland作為顧問,不論分數和價格上也比以前大為提升。

Chateau Pape Clement Rouge 1961

Chateau Pape Clement Rouge 1961

Medium(-) garnet color with a bit haze

Medium intensity aromas of dry fruits like prune and plum, smoky, vanilla and tobacco. A hint of oxidized and caramel note

Medium(+) acidity, medium(+) fine tannins, medium body, medium intensity flavours of  red fruits like redcurrant, spicy like clove, smoky, leather with medium finish.

除酒色較淺有點混濁外,也有氧化的氣味,沒有很多primary aromas 的存在,感到酒已經很累,步入晚年了。

最後一支是甜酒

Chateau Filhot是Sauternes的二級莊,以semillon葡萄為主。

Chateau Filhot 1967

Chateau Filhot 1967

Medium gold color with medium(+) intensity aroma of honey, orange, nutty floral, citrus and pears

Sweet with medium acidity, medium (+) body, medium intensity flavor of citrus, peel, honey, toffee, nutty, pear, dry apricot and marmalade with medium(+) finish lingered by citrus peel.

酸度有點不足,未能支撐甜度,有點美中不足,但可以接受。

心水清的會發現少了一支酒,其實原本還有一支Chateau Chasse Spleen 1961的,可惜支酒cork了,變成了一支Sherry,就沒有飲用了。

最後大家的Wine of the night,次序如下

  1. Chateau Haut Brion 1966
  2. Chateau Chasse Spleen 1966
  3. Chateau Canon 1964

全晚的酒除了Chateau Pape Clement及Chateau Chasse Spleen 1961外,全部都依然年青,正值壯年。假如唔睇顏色單以味道盲品,相信開估時大部人也會大跌眼鏡,以為是70年代尾80年代頭的酒。所以縱使次級的酒莊,次等的年份,依然可以令人驚奇,令人期代。

問題是如果我們對酒的年輕與否不再應單純以年齡來決定,對人我們又應否放棄單純以年齡來衡量的準則呢?

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