Chateau Palmer Vertical Tasting

朋友J大再次帶來一個令人期待及難忘的晚上,帶來了由70年代開始,橫誇3個年代,共11個年份的Chateau Palmer晚宴。

Chateau Palmer酒莊是位於法國波爾多Margaux/瑪歌區Issan村莊,在1855 classification中位列第三級。最初在1748年時在Foix-Candale家族的遺產中由Chateau d’Issan分析出來給了Gascq family。

1814年Gascq family的Madame Marie Bumet de Ferrière轉讓了給駐守在波爾多準備由軍旅生涯中退休的英國將軍Charles Palmer,之後改名為今天的Chateau Palmer。Palmer將軍之後不斷投入資金改善設備給買入土地。加上將軍的社交能力,20年後Chateau Palmer已開始和Chateau Margaux和Chateau Beychevelle齊名。但過度的擴張及管理不善最終引至財政問題,酒莊被迫在1843年出售給Françoise-Marie Bergerac。

之後酒莊一直交由一間農業按揭貸款公司打理,直至1853年轉讓給銀行家Péreires家族。資金再度投入改善設備,葡萄田也重新栽種 (因為當時一種由真菌oidium引至的植物病肆虐,很多葡萄藤也受到感染),現時酒莊的大宅也是在這時期興建。

二次大前酒莊落入由現時的持有人-法國的Bouteiller,荷蘭的Mahler Besse及英國的Sichel共同擁有的公司中。

酒莊的品質和聲譽在近4-50年間冒起得很快,價格也一直高企,名氣僅次於Chateau Margaux。雖然只是三級酒莊,但有Super Second /超二級的美譽。

這全因為General Manager Bertrand Bouteiller的領導及Chardon family 負責打理葡萄田及負責釀酒。加上擁有了莊園後的一片葡萄田,有了天地人的優勢。

在做酒方面Chateau Palmer用了比較多的Merlot,比例差不多和Cabernet Sauvignon相約(但近年Merlot的成份相對減少),再加少許的Petit Verdot葡萄。風格上豐滿,口感柔順,單寧細緻,芬香宜人。

 

11個年份分別是1970, 1983, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988, 1990, 1992, 1994, 1995, 1998。

 

分了4個flighst試酒,括弧後的是Wine Advocate對每個vintage的分數給大家作參考之用。在tasting note中不寫上那些balance、structure等的字眼了。

Flight 1 – 1987(76R), 1992(79R)

Chateau Palmer 1987

Chateau Palmer 1987

Chateau Palmer 1987

Medium(-) Ruby Color with wide pale garnet rim

On nose, Medium(+) intensity aromas of dry red fruits, stalky, tea leaf, leather, graphite and hint of green bell pepper.  It is fully developed.

Dry, medium(+) acidity, medium(+) soft tannins, medium(+) body and medium intensity flavor of fresh red fruits like redcurrant , spicy, hint of dry red fruit, and hint of orange peel. Medium length lingered by minerality.

Lively on palate, palate was younger than nose but grassy noses turned more intense then showed it came from a weak vintage and body turned to medium, and evolved dry tangerine peel.

味道比較活潑,而且比香氣年青,青草味之後越見強烈,酒體也漸轉為中等,顯示酒係弱年出品。慢慢陳皮、乾梅味也出來了。

Chateau Palmer 1992

Chateau Palmer 1992

Chateau Palmer 1992

Medium(-) ruby color with wide pale garnet rim.

On nose, Medium(+) intensity aromas of red fruits, it is developing.

Dry, medium acidity, medium(+) body, medium intensity flavours of dry tangerine peel, red fruits, coffee. Medium length lingered by minerality and orange.

The nose was closed but intense than palate and evolved to grassy on nose later.

香氣比較封閉單一,但比味道強,之後也散發出青草味。

 

Flight 2 – 1985(86R), 1988(85R), 1994(85C)

Chateau Palmer 1985

Chateau Palmer 1985

Chateau Palmer 1985

Medium ruby color with medium garnet rim.

On nose, medium(+) intensity aromas of dry tangerine peel, dry fruit, leather, dry violet, mint, ciger box, liquorice, coffee, vanilla. It is fully developed.

Dry, medium(+) acidity, medium fine tannin, medium(+) body,  medium(+) intensity flavor of coffee, sweet fruit, red fruits like plum, spicy, liquorice. Medium finish with dry tangerine peel.

Floral on nose, with more complexity and intensity on flavor. Palate is much younger than nose.

好花香,味道比較複雜,力度也比較強,而且比香氣年青很多,單寧很細緻柔滑。

Chateau Palmer 1988

Chateau Palmer 1988

Chateau Palmer 1988

Medium(-) ruby color with garnet rim

Medium(+) intensity aromas of prune, liquorice, coffee. It is developing.

Dry, medium(+) acidity, medium(+) firm tannin, medium body, medium intensity flavours of prune, liquorice, mint, coffee. Meidum length with orange peel.

年青,單寧多而且實在,但酒體及力度中等。

Chateau Palmer 1994

Chateau Palmer 1994

Chateau Palmer 1994

Medium ruby color with garnet rim.

Medium intensity aromas of sweet red fruits, hint of vanilla, violet, tobacco. It is developing.

Dry, medium(+) acidity, medium(+) firm tannin, medium(+) body,  medium(+) intensity flavor of red fruit like red currant, peel, liquorice. Medum finish.

Floral on nose. It was young without mature characters.

很花香,非常年青有活力,單寧多而且實在,用桶比較明顯。

 

Flight 4 – 1970(85R), 1986(90T), 1995(88E)

Chateau Palmer 1970

Chateau Palmer 1970

Chateau Palmer 1970

Pale garnet with wide rim.

Medium(+) intensity aromas of truffle, dry fruit like prune, violet , floral, mint, tobacco, and a forestry note. It is fully developed.

Dry, medium(+) acidity, medium(+) fine tannin,  medium(+) body, medium(+) intensity flavor of dry prune, fresh prune, savory, hint of leather medium(+) length with dry prune.

Again palate was younger than nose, beautifully elegant and silky, balance between dry and fresh fruit.

Intense nose and palate intensity, velvety tannins with complex and fuller body.

味道比香氣年青,優雅,口感柔滑,乾果和鮮果平衡。

香氣、 味道複雜而且強,天鵝絨般的單寧,酒體豐滿。

Chateau Palmer 1986

Chateau Palmer 1986

Chateau Palmer 1986

Medium ruby color with medium garnet rim.

Medium(+) intensity aromas of vanilla, plummy, cedar, chocolate, floral. It is developing.

Dry, medium(+) acidity, medium(+) firm tannin, medium(+) body, medium(+) intensity flavours of sweet plum, cedar and vanilla. Medium length.

More fruits with round texture but quite close on nose and palate.

年青,果比較多,香氣強,單寧實在,酒體豐滿,味道強,用桶也明顯,顯示是靚年的出品。

Chateau Palmer 1995

Chateau Palmer 1995

Chateau Palmer 1995

Medium ruby color with narrow rim

Medium(+) intensity aromas of red fruits like prune, redcurrant, violet, menthol, liquorice, orange. It is developing.

Dry, medium(+) acidity, medium(+) firm tannins, medium(+) body, medium(+) intensity flavours of red fruit like prune, liquorice, coffee and medium(+) finish.

Young, complex, concentrate and suppleness.

Flight 4 – 1983 (95R), 1990(90E), 1998(86T)

Chateau Palmer 1983

Chateau Palmer 1983

Chateau Palmer 1983

Medium garnet color with wide rim

Medium(+) intensity aromas of vanilla, prune, leather, violet. It is developing.

Dry, medium acidity, medium(+) firm tannin, medium(+) body, medium(+) intensity flavor of fresh prune, red currants, spicy, liquorice, coffee, caramel, dark chocolate. Medium(+) length.

Charming and elegant

Robert Parker 給予97分的,非常年青,和1986年的一樣,不過收給更長,優雅迷人。

Chateau Palmer 1990

Chateau Palmer 1990

Chateau Palmer 1990

Medium ruby color

Medium(+) intensiy aromas of vanilla, smoky, fresh red fruit, violet, tobacco. It is developing.

Meidum(+) body, medium(+) intensity flavours of fresh red fruit, spicy, tobacco, ceder, mint, hint of leather. Medium(+) finish.

支酒最令人不明白的是地方是為何酒標倒轉了!

Chateau Palmer 1998

Chateau Palmer 1998

Chateau Palmer 1998

Medium ruby color with narrow ruby rim

Medium(+) intensity aromas of smoky, perfume, fresh red fruits, hint of black fruit, green bell pepper. It is developing.

Medium(+) firm tannin,  Medium(+) body, medium intensity fresh red fruit,  hint of black fruit, spicy, coffee.  Medium(+) length.

和其他最不同的是有黑果味-現代波爾多酒的雛形。

 

總結

Chateau Palmer在不同年份,不論弱年好年風格都很一致,整體質素很高也很一致。弱年好年的分別在於在好年每樣都多一點,都強一點,都長一點,複雜一點,當然價錢貴多不止一點。

因為Chateau Palmer的價錢一向高企,所以如果有興趣一嘗Chateau Palmer,但預算又有限的,可以考慮一些弱年的出品。

Chateau Palmer Vertical Tasting

大家選出的WOTN 3 甲次序是1983, 1990, 1995。

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